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November 12, 2017 - Custom Speakers

MAESTER: 2,347 Miles

I spent months researching optinos for custom speakers before even having Maester in my garage. I will dispense with the details that got me here; they may show up earlier on the timeline as I slowly get my journals online.

By popular demand, I have a few pictures to share:

Here is a view of the factory tweeter, removed from its grill. Note the small capacitor, a minimal crossover to protect the tweeter from burning out on low frequencies. It crosses over at a very high frequency, leaving the doors to play at high frequencies that they are not good at: they can’t fill the whole car, creating hot and cold spots, not to mention tons of distortion.

You will also see that the tweeter has a wiring harness molded into it. I cut it away from the tweeter to use with my new tweeter. This works great! And it avoids having to slice into the factory wiring.

Next you see a photo from my first tweeter glued into the back of the factory grill. My second choice for tweeters are too wide for the round mount. I used a box knife to slice the cylindrical mount to allow it to splay out and afford a larger driver. I then used glue and tape to hold it in place.

Here’s a closer view of the tiny capacitor in the factory crossover. My design uses a high quality capacitor that is about 2 inches long! The design also includes an air coil inductor and a large resistor (not shown). I will keep searching my camera to see if there are more views of the finished product.

The next shot shows my second tweeter choice, the Dayton ND28F-6. These are relatively inexpensive yet well rated for low distortion. It is a wider driver that can handle lower frequencies than most tweeters. By getting lower frequencies up onto the dash, the sound stage moves up and forward; you won’t have sounds coming from the floor. The factory flange is removed by three screws in order to fit the Bolt. This is the very largest tweeter one can fit without altering the visible side of the grill.

To fit this wider tweeter, the cylinder mount on the back of the grill has to be expanded. I cut the plastic to flare it out.

Here you see the tweeter mounted. I used glue and then wrapped it in black electrical tape to keep it all tidy until the silicone adhesive dried.

Here is a shot of the woofer mount, created by cutting the factory woofer’s innards out of its shell. When you are cutting up the woofer, be sure to preserve the wire harness - see next photo.

Here is a close-up of the wiring harness, cut away from the factory woofer. Solder leads to the new woofer to it and then you can easily attach it to the factory door’s harness without cutting wires in the car.

Sorry for the blurry shot. My install of the woofers was too close for the lens I was using. At least you can see the woofer mounted in the factory woofer’s frame. One of the crossover elemets - the air coil - is visible along the outer edge, and the factory wire harness is also seen soldered to the end of the speaker leads.

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