I spent months researching optinos for custom speakers before even having Maester in my garage. I will dispense with the details that got me here; they may show up earlier on the timeline as I slowly get my journals online.
By popular demand, I have a few pictures to share:
Here is a view of the factory tweeter, removed from its grill. Note the small capacitor, a minimal crossover to protect the tweeter from burning out on low frequencies. It crosses over at a very high frequency, leaving the doors to play at high frequencies that they are not good at: they cant fill the whole car, creating hot and cold spots, not to mention tons of distortion.
You will also see that the tweeter has a wiring harness molded into
it. I cut it away from the tweeter to use with my new tweeter. This
works great! And it avoids having to slice into the factory wiring.
Next you see a photo from my first tweeter glued into the back of the
factory grill. My second choice for tweeters are too wide for the
round mount. I used a box knife to slice the cylindrical mount to
allow it to splay out and afford a larger driver. I then used glue and
tape to hold it in place.
Heres a closer view of the tiny capacitor in the factory
crossover. My design uses a high quality capacitor that is about 2
inches long! The design also includes an air coil inductor and a large
resistor (not shown). I will keep searching my camera to see if there
are more views of the finished product.
The next shot shows my second tweeter choice, the Dayton
ND28F-6. These are relatively inexpensive yet well rated for low
distortion. It is a wider driver that can handle lower frequencies
than most tweeters. By getting lower frequencies up onto the dash, the
sound stage moves up and forward; you wont have sounds coming from
the floor. The factory flange is removed by three screws in order to
fit the Bolt. This is the very largest tweeter one can fit
without altering the visible side of the grill.
To fit this wider tweeter, the cylinder mount on the back of the grill
has to be expanded. I cut the plastic to flare it out.
Here you see the tweeter mounted. I used glue and then wrapped it in
black electrical tape to keep it all tidy until the silicone
Here is a shot of the woofer mount, created by cutting the factory
woofers innards out of its shell. When you are cutting up the woofer,
be sure to preserve the wire harness - see next photo.
Here is a close-up of the wiring harness, cut away from the factory
woofer. Solder leads to the new woofer to it and then you can easily
attach it to the factory doors harness without cutting wires in the car.
Sorry for the blurry shot. My install of the woofers was too close for
the lens I was using. At least you can see the woofer mounted in the
factory woofers frame. One of the crossover elemets - the air coil -
is visible along the outer edge, and the factory wire harness is also
seen soldered to the end of the speaker leads.